The end is drawing near: my five months period as an inhabitant of this peculiar eastern Mediterranean island is very close to an end. In twelve ours I am going to leave behind the life in here and move on to face new challenges that the life will bring.
What to say about Cyprus in a brief blog post at the end of an era (albeit a short one at that). During my stay in here, a Cypriot colleague of mine from the university held a presentation about Cyprus referring to it as “the whole world captured on an island”. I would not go all the way to back this bold claim, since there certainly is a bunch of things in the “whole world” that cannot be found on this island. Functioning public transport (though I have to admit they are really working on bus lines and have made tangible progress while my stay in here), railways, insulated buildings, traffic discipline, ferry services to other countries, widely available high quality education, competition in energy markets, enforcement of human rights and labor law are some of the things that are often taken for granted in many other countries, but seem to be absent in the Cypriot society. On the other hand, it is certainly true that the island is and immensely diverse collection of different kind of natural landscapes and cultural phenomena. The location in the crossroads of civilizations and several millennia old history under different local powers and global empires has without a doubt left its mark on the island and the life in the present-day Cyprus.
Perhaps this is the main reason why the Cypriot culture is so difficult to grasp. Cyprus is a dish mixed up from so many differently flavored ingredients, that it is difficult to put one’s finger on the whole of it . This is the straw that the British colonial powers hung on to in their endeavors to keep the island on the leash of the empire when they claimed that the Cypriot culture does not exist. In this matter I beg to differ. With all the affiliations felt to the “parent” countries of Greece and Turkey (south and north of this divided island respectively), the pride of Lusignan, Venetian, and Crusades-related history and the controversial love felt for the latest colonial masters from the UK, the Cypriot culture may be a mixture of different influences and not many things may be in the strictest sense original, but the resulting mixture is certainly a unique one that cannot be found anywhere else on this planet. One intriguing result of this is watching how the country constantly balances the almost schizophrenic and contradictory aspects of its complex history in trying to make sense of its own national narrative. And of course, to add to the mix there are two narratives that are very different from each other: the Turkish Cypriot and the Greek Cypriot one.
What is more, the Cypriot nature seems to be in perfect concordance with the historical, political and cultural multiplicity of the island. For Example, when I first arrived in here it was quite a surprise for me to find out that there actually is a fully functioning ski resort on this island that is first and foremost famous for its hot sun and sandy beaches. Even though the Mt Olympus resort is open only a few weeks a year, it is a great manifestation of the immense variety of the Cypriot landscape. Not only do they host a ski resort, but Troodos Mountains are well worth visiting for the beautiful and well maintained mountain roads, surprising wildlife and breathtaking views. Neither is the Troodos range the only beautiful mountainous area in Cyprus. Kyrenia Range and the Pentadaktylos mountains in the North offer fantastic experiences for a traveler longing to feast his or her eyes on the beauties of nature as well. Mountainous areas (particularly in the North) are also a home to a host of interesting historical castles and other signs of the centuries old tumultuous history of the island. Even the very coast line, the number one selling point of the Cypriot tourism industry, is much more than the fantastic sandy beaches: caves, coves, rocks and dunes surrounded by the perfect clear blue and turquoise water are a sight that is hard to find anywhere in the world. In addition, even the sandy beaches are different from one another, the ends of the scale being the ultimate party beaches of Ayia Napa and practically deserted (though slightly dirty) sea turtle hatching place Golden Beach in the tip of the Karpasia peninsula in the Northern Cyprus.
So Cyprus, what can I say? Colorful, beautiful and interesting, sometimes lacking common sense and sometimes lacking in hospitality (that it allegedly always used to have), but still and because of all that, in one word: fascinating. If there is something I will regret on my deathbed, it will NOT be spending these months rubbing shoulders with this Mediterranean island.
I.